Deep in the Julia Child archives, past the boeuf bouguignon, onion soup, jiggling aspics and the patently untrue yarn about the chicken that fell from the counter, mid-trussing, and was dusted off and put back into use with a remark about “nobody’s in the kitchen but you,” there are recipes so low in butter and bacon that they hardly fit the stereotype of French food as gluttony, as are thus rarely mentioned. A good lot of them are in From Julia Child’s Kitchen; published in 1975, it contained recipes and kitchen wisdom that came from episodes of her PBS show. Gentler to novices than her Mastering the Art of French Cooking classics, the recipes seemed more familiar to American audiences, such as leek and potato soup, sauteed chicken breasts with tarragon and tomatoes, and, here, even a riff on deviled eggs that I am making my mission to rescue from obscurity.

I’m a big fan of the hard-boiled egg; I find that keeping a few in the fridge makes for an easy breakfast with a slice of whole-grain cinnamon toast, a wholesome way to add protein to a lunch salad, or for snacks. My favorite way to eat them is slightly undercooked, peeled, halved and schmeared with the thinnest film of mayo and then sharp Dijon, followed by a few flakes of sea salt, but Julia Child’s version might be their highest calling: the potential to stuff their centers with something like a balanced meal, or at least a really gush-worthy appetizer.

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by Chris Barila

“Kidney beans simmered with onion, bell pepper, garlic, tomato paste and rice. You can substitute black beans, if you prefer.”

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It’s asparagus season! Here is a beautiful and classic way to serve them—quickly cooked in simmering water, drained, and sprinkled with a tangy caper vinaigrette and grated hard boiled egg. This recipe serves four, but you could easily double, triple, or quadruple the recipe. With more asparagus you could arrange them in a circle on a large platter for a dramatic presentation.

Continue reading “Boiled Asparagus with Sieved Eggs and Caper Vinaigrette” »

It’s asparagus season! Here is a beautiful and classic way to serve them—quickly cooked in simmering water, drained, and sprinkled with a tangy caper vinaigrette and grated hard boiled egg. This recipe serves four, but you could easily double, triple, or quadruple the recipe. With more asparagus you could arrange them in a circle on a large platter for a dramatic presentation.

Continue reading “Boiled Asparagus with Sieved Eggs and Caper Vinaigrette” »

It’s asparagus season! Here is a beautiful and classic way to serve them—quickly cooked in simmering water, drained, and sprinkled with a tangy caper vinaigrette and grated hard boiled egg. This recipe serves four, but you could easily double, triple, or quadruple the recipe. With more asparagus you could arrange them in a circle on a large platter for a dramatic presentation.

Continue reading “Boiled Asparagus with Sieved Eggs and Caper Vinaigrette” »